the time has finally come, i am leaving brasil today. i'm sad but i am also happy.
what am i going to miss about brasil? i feel like there will be so much. again, top ten things i am going to miss about brasil.
1. portuguese. this language is so beautiful and poetic, will i ever hear it again? i can speak this language, communicate with people on many levels. its fun, its challenging, it pains me to think that i may not have to opportunity to use my new knowledge while i am in the united states.
2. brasileiros. oh man, brazilians are some of the friendliest and helpful people i have ever met! a person on the street will go out of their way to help you find a street of the right bus, and brazilians love to meet new people. i will feel sad in the US where people walk with their heads down and avoid human contact.
3. fruitas e sucos. they have the most amazing tropical fruits and juices here. will i ever feel satisfied with orange and apple again? this is very questionable.
4. moving. i feel like traveling is therapeutic. we spend so much of out lives in the same place; our homes, our cars and work- rinse and repeat. i love the rootless feeling i have moving every three days, sleeping on overnight buses, and making fast friends with people in the same situations.
5. jugglers at red lights. what an enterprising idea! at almost all major intersections i have been to there is a person juggling- bowling pins, torches, blocks, and balls. they are living the life many of us dream about; transient, no ties, eating with the money you earn that day- they seem to be the dreamers. i think i need a little more stability in my life, but i appreciate the fact that not everyone does.
6. rain or chuva. the rain is a daily occurrence. it is a cleansing time, where mother nature forces you to chill out, stop running and wait. ela faleu fica tranquilo. it can be a small cool drop that falls from a sunny sky of a torrent of rain pouring down, soaking indiscriminately. california needs more of this.
7. the jungle. the way the forests are so dense. 500 different shades of green, mixed with blue, yellow, brown, and red. vines, mushrooms, palms, trees, bushes, grass! so much diversity of life. dark, dense, wet, and full of life. can you tell im inspired?
8. industry brasileira. the things i have bought in brazil came from brazil. i have yet to encounter "made in china". what a wonderful way to support your own economy; the US has lost its sense of locality while chasing the greatest profit. we are obviously seeing some of the repercussions now, but have an obligation not to leave our trading partners high and dry.
9. boats. i havent been on so many boats in my entire life. i love it. we paddle, we motor, we float. its peaceful, yet at the same time the balance may be thrown and could tip you out at anytime. i love the way the water can be so disturbed and frothy in the moment, leaving a white wake. yet, 30 meters late it is calm, glassy and undisturbed. que linda.
10. BRAZIL! this needs no explanation.
TCHAU brasil! você é muito legal, simpatio e linda. saudades a você pra caramba!
OLÁ estados unidos. vamos a dancar.
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
Friday, March 13, 2009
Manaus
oba! i though belém was urban, manuas is much more. it 'spins me out' that it is an international port 150 km inland, weird. the boat ride was long, and i felt ill the entire time so i wasn't doing too much sight seeing. we were the only gringos on the boat as well and recieved much unwanted male attention. god, i wish i knew how to tell them how to fuck off in portuguese. thank you, yes, i know im beautiful. no, i do not want to marry you. no, im not married. yes, i have a boyfriend. gah. leave me alone. incessent. but, the families were great. i have a new 11 year old best friend names paloma.
today it is off to the zoo, and some other sightseeingingingly things. but first lunch!
tchau
today it is off to the zoo, and some other sightseeingingingly things. but first lunch!
tchau
Monday, March 9, 2009
Passagem no Amazônia
A boat, a barge, the amazon. A hammok, or hedge, multiplied by the hundreds. People are stacked, like cards. Squished, like sardines in a can. Are you jealous yet? It's amazing. I never thought in my life that I would float up the largest river in the world.
It is so vast. River ocean the color of tea. Floating near the banks, passing jungle. Not only, passing people. Children in boats begging centavos from tourists. Small children paddling, alone on the huge body of water. Just their skinny body and a hand hewen wooden canoe. We pass houses, shacks, platforms on the banks of the rio amazônias. Who lives here? Is their street aqua? Do they like it? What is their occupation or do they have one?
There is a cirus on the barge. Literally and in jest. People from all walks of life. Young wealthy tourists, hippies getting their bread by selling bracelets, earrings, necklaces. Brazilians, young and old. Babies, teenagers, famalies, grandmas. Colorful hammoks, hanging, swaying, swinging; propelled by the weight of human bodies. Free spirits, juggling on the deck, tossing balls and bowling pins, performing slight of hand for the enjoyment of others.
It rains. Everyday, not all day. There is sun as well, peeking out. Illuminating the white clouds, the verdant green plateu. Changing rapidly and staying the same, this time on the boat.
We stop, we streach, we explore. Santarém and Alter do Chão. City buses on rutted, rainy dirt roads leads to a gem. A village in the amazon, on the river, white sand beaches. We celebrate! freedom from boat captivity, for the newly found calm of this friendly village and the 201st birthday of Alter do Chão! Cake! So much cake. Cake lovingly made by groups of people who care for their ciudade. Then all cakes, seems like 100s in total, are paraded through the town like roman gods acompanied by music made of horns and drums. Cake eaten from the palm of the hand. Then watching a clown perform, out of the goodness of his heart, for children in the praça. Juggling, magic, imitations, laughing.
A short boat ride leads us to an island, where in the 'dry' season white sands connect to Alter do Chão. A skinny, ribbed dog come chasing after. Tail waving in the air, a flag of happiness; yips of joy sound and the boatman jokes this is our 'guia florestal'. No joke. A companion to the top of a peek, a furry, exploring, excited friend. A view that austounds rewards our hard work, rivers, rainforest, lagoons. A chat and next thing guia florestal is sleeping below a bench. A swim in the river, a beer on the beach.
Boating again, exploring a flooded jungle. We float pass the tops of towering palms; see geometrical reflections of leaves in the water. How strange to sit in the canopy of a forest. Up close to the greens, yellows and browns; smooth, glassy, and rough. How can you live with no air, tree? Where are your roots obtaining this life sustaining gas? Will you live to see the flood subside? to see the forest floor become capteted once more in green, then the litter of leaves?
An island in the rain. Where people live in a commune, where they share and you can come too if you want. Would you like to buy some of this jewlery I made? This is a feather, a bone, nut, tooth. A walk through the rainforest. Dense, dark, dripping; abundnce and life. A native guide climbing over, under and upon logs- us too. Navigating the small, barely visible path. We stare in awe at the strength and poetry of the vines; snaking, spiraling, surrounding. A bath in a secluded pool, the water is clear and not a murky tea color. We cleanse the busyness and buslte of Belém from our bodies. We wash under the roots of a fallen giant, who kindly left the hole to be flooded with clear, life giving water.
The rain continues falling. Shelter of a thached hut, a book on brids, on the amazon. I will always remember the sound of those mokeys howling. So loud. The rain, this is their song. Rawr, Hoot, exclaiming their power. Yet running at the approch of a threat. Is this like me? Wanting to be so big, exclaiming my independence, doing it because I can. Yet, mindful and sometimes fearful about where I am, who I am with, my safety.
This time on the Rio Amazônias has been dicotomous. This river, ocean, great body makes on feel so small. I am an isignificat speck in the history of this river. Yet, this grand, sprawling, unending waters will always be ingrained into my memory. I will remember the islands, the rain, tropical forests, children. But most significant in my mind will be the sheer magnitude of the river; who could think such a thing is possible?
It is so vast. River ocean the color of tea. Floating near the banks, passing jungle. Not only, passing people. Children in boats begging centavos from tourists. Small children paddling, alone on the huge body of water. Just their skinny body and a hand hewen wooden canoe. We pass houses, shacks, platforms on the banks of the rio amazônias. Who lives here? Is their street aqua? Do they like it? What is their occupation or do they have one?
There is a cirus on the barge. Literally and in jest. People from all walks of life. Young wealthy tourists, hippies getting their bread by selling bracelets, earrings, necklaces. Brazilians, young and old. Babies, teenagers, famalies, grandmas. Colorful hammoks, hanging, swaying, swinging; propelled by the weight of human bodies. Free spirits, juggling on the deck, tossing balls and bowling pins, performing slight of hand for the enjoyment of others.
It rains. Everyday, not all day. There is sun as well, peeking out. Illuminating the white clouds, the verdant green plateu. Changing rapidly and staying the same, this time on the boat.
We stop, we streach, we explore. Santarém and Alter do Chão. City buses on rutted, rainy dirt roads leads to a gem. A village in the amazon, on the river, white sand beaches. We celebrate! freedom from boat captivity, for the newly found calm of this friendly village and the 201st birthday of Alter do Chão! Cake! So much cake. Cake lovingly made by groups of people who care for their ciudade. Then all cakes, seems like 100s in total, are paraded through the town like roman gods acompanied by music made of horns and drums. Cake eaten from the palm of the hand. Then watching a clown perform, out of the goodness of his heart, for children in the praça. Juggling, magic, imitations, laughing.
A short boat ride leads us to an island, where in the 'dry' season white sands connect to Alter do Chão. A skinny, ribbed dog come chasing after. Tail waving in the air, a flag of happiness; yips of joy sound and the boatman jokes this is our 'guia florestal'. No joke. A companion to the top of a peek, a furry, exploring, excited friend. A view that austounds rewards our hard work, rivers, rainforest, lagoons. A chat and next thing guia florestal is sleeping below a bench. A swim in the river, a beer on the beach.
Boating again, exploring a flooded jungle. We float pass the tops of towering palms; see geometrical reflections of leaves in the water. How strange to sit in the canopy of a forest. Up close to the greens, yellows and browns; smooth, glassy, and rough. How can you live with no air, tree? Where are your roots obtaining this life sustaining gas? Will you live to see the flood subside? to see the forest floor become capteted once more in green, then the litter of leaves?
An island in the rain. Where people live in a commune, where they share and you can come too if you want. Would you like to buy some of this jewlery I made? This is a feather, a bone, nut, tooth. A walk through the rainforest. Dense, dark, dripping; abundnce and life. A native guide climbing over, under and upon logs- us too. Navigating the small, barely visible path. We stare in awe at the strength and poetry of the vines; snaking, spiraling, surrounding. A bath in a secluded pool, the water is clear and not a murky tea color. We cleanse the busyness and buslte of Belém from our bodies. We wash under the roots of a fallen giant, who kindly left the hole to be flooded with clear, life giving water.
The rain continues falling. Shelter of a thached hut, a book on brids, on the amazon. I will always remember the sound of those mokeys howling. So loud. The rain, this is their song. Rawr, Hoot, exclaiming their power. Yet running at the approch of a threat. Is this like me? Wanting to be so big, exclaiming my independence, doing it because I can. Yet, mindful and sometimes fearful about where I am, who I am with, my safety.
This time on the Rio Amazônias has been dicotomous. This river, ocean, great body makes on feel so small. I am an isignificat speck in the history of this river. Yet, this grand, sprawling, unending waters will always be ingrained into my memory. I will remember the islands, the rain, tropical forests, children. But most significant in my mind will be the sheer magnitude of the river; who could think such a thing is possible?
Tuesday, March 3, 2009
Pictorals
Butterfly at Foz do Iguaço
Foz do Iguaço
Foz do Igaço
Horseback riding in the Pantanal
Caimen in the Pantanal
Macaw in the Pantanal
Capivari, largest rodent in the world; Pantanal
Boating in the Pantanal
Look cloesly and you will see caimen
Salty fried piranahs
If you would like to see all of my pictures from the Pantanal and Foz do Iguaço check out my facebook album, Boa Viagem
Monday, March 2, 2009
a change of plans
oh the beauty of travel, of having no commitments.
my plans have changed. a flight to and from altamira and a flight from belém to são paulo just isn't worth it. plus, i don't like fliying that much!
im joining everyone in the hostel for an excurssion by boat up the amazon! sleeping in hammoks on the deck of the boat for five days. sound exciting? well actually we will be stopping in santarem for a few days, checking out the jungle and the white sand amazonian beaches. in manaus the plan is to book an amazon safari tour. maybe i'll finally see that jaguar.
as of right now nothing too exciting has happened. i bought a hammok (only 15 reais-$6.50 US!) ate some beans, pasta, rice and salad. oh and açai. the açai is drinken straight up here, no sugar, no granola, no fruit. it's intense. we listened to the people sitting next to us make fun of us, they thought we didn't speak protuguses. whops, i guess i do the same to tourists in yosemite too. not quite as fun to be on the other end of things.
i need to pack up my mochila and stock up at the grocery store. be prepared for updates in santarem.
tchau!
my plans have changed. a flight to and from altamira and a flight from belém to são paulo just isn't worth it. plus, i don't like fliying that much!
im joining everyone in the hostel for an excurssion by boat up the amazon! sleeping in hammoks on the deck of the boat for five days. sound exciting? well actually we will be stopping in santarem for a few days, checking out the jungle and the white sand amazonian beaches. in manaus the plan is to book an amazon safari tour. maybe i'll finally see that jaguar.
as of right now nothing too exciting has happened. i bought a hammok (only 15 reais-$6.50 US!) ate some beans, pasta, rice and salad. oh and açai. the açai is drinken straight up here, no sugar, no granola, no fruit. it's intense. we listened to the people sitting next to us make fun of us, they thought we didn't speak protuguses. whops, i guess i do the same to tourists in yosemite too. not quite as fun to be on the other end of things.
i need to pack up my mochila and stock up at the grocery store. be prepared for updates in santarem.
tchau!
Saturday, February 28, 2009
Belém
Belém is a wonderful city. It is the most urban place that I have visited thus far in brazil. The culture is very different here than in the south; there's a lot more seafood! Thus far I have wandered around the markets, danced samba until five in the morning, amd visited the bontanical gardens.
The botanical gardens were more like a zoo as there were monkeys, birds, turles and a manatee! While these animals are fun to look at I feel quite bad for them, do they deserve to be kept in such a small place with no freedom. I don't think so.
There was an afternoon downpour at the gardens and the vendors made off like bandits! Everyone was huddled from the rain as were the vendors. They saw their chance. Many small children with their parents with nothing to do.. Look buy this toy, cotton candy, bubbles. hilarious to observe.
I still have't purchased my plane ticket to Altamira and have had some trouble calling the family on the phone. I'm going to give it another go tomorrow and see what happens.
Tchau
The botanical gardens were more like a zoo as there were monkeys, birds, turles and a manatee! While these animals are fun to look at I feel quite bad for them, do they deserve to be kept in such a small place with no freedom. I don't think so.
There was an afternoon downpour at the gardens and the vendors made off like bandits! Everyone was huddled from the rain as were the vendors. They saw their chance. Many small children with their parents with nothing to do.. Look buy this toy, cotton candy, bubbles. hilarious to observe.
I still have't purchased my plane ticket to Altamira and have had some trouble calling the family on the phone. I'm going to give it another go tomorrow and see what happens.
Tchau
Thursday, February 26, 2009
I ate a PIRANAH
Back from the Pantanal with the mosquito bites to prove it. Seriously, it was intense.
I´ve been on the move quite a bit. Toured the Argentinean side of Iguaço (it is WAY better than the brazilian side). This was an all day, very sweaty excursion. Totally worth it. I stood above the precipe of the falls and could barely take pictures because of all the mist. It was very humbling to be surrounded by the power of such a simple element, water. It was a paridise really; rainbows, palm trees, birds, and butterflys abound in the unique ecological niche that it Iguaço.
Immediately after touring the falls I'm on a bus headed to Campo Grande, where the Pantanla tour departrs from. Oh man, I was stinky. Walking all day in the sun combined with 12 hours on a bus- stench. I putter around Campo Grande waiting for the tour to leave, oh and took a shower.
I thought I was outdoorsy, I thought I had everything I needed to rough it, I thought mosquitos didn't bother me that much. I think I thought wrong. I didn't bring insect repellent- bad move. as soon as we step off the bus we are attacked by a swarm of mosquitos. Oh shit, welcome to the Pantanal gringos! That's what we get for willingly visiting a SWAMP.
Besides the mosquitos the Pantanal was lovely (sorry, I've been meeting a lot of brits). The accomodations were very cool- hammoks! The food was fantastic, although I pretty sure I'm still farting from all the rice and beans...
The first day was horseback riding! I was practically peeing I was so excited. My horse was awesome, I named it howard even though it was a girl. We went for a 2.5 hour ride, glorious. I got to steer a horse and make it trot. I decided that I need a horsey, pweeeese? The scenery was beautiful, flat swamp, tall grasses, dense palm jungles, and isolated lakes filled with crocodiles.
Another favorite was the hiking. A little different to my idea of hiking. Hiking with long sleves, jeans, boots, hat, and bandana on the neck in a humid 90 degrees. I was very sweaty, but I was trying in vain to avoid massive attack by mosquito. Our guide, Sondro showed us native uses for the plants and animals in the area. It was facinating. There are lots of fruits growing in the jungle and I ate guava from a tree, a relative to the avacado that was sweet and a tiny tiny coconut. I also slathered my face in repelent about every half hour.
Boat riding on the river had to be my favorite. We saw so many animals! Toucans, monkeys, herons, cranes, capivarai- the largest rodent in the world, caimen crocodiles, macaws, oh the list could go on and on. It was glorious, the sun was setting and reflecting off the water and herons were taking flight. A serene and tranquil setting; that is until we realized that our boat was flooding. Sondro assured us that we would not die, but it was iffy. Fortunately we made it back to the landing unscathed, except for wet legs.
I also swam in the piranah and caimen infested river. It is the color of lager and very warm. refreshing none the less and mosquitos can't bite you under water.
I have claimed lately that if I were to every eat meat it would have to be a fish that I caught and killed myself. So, we went fishing for piranahs. Its was disgusting; gross meat on a hook dangling from a bamboo rod. apparently I really suck at fishing which was fine I didn't particularly want to kill one anyway. I caught one fish and promptly threw it back in the water, I'm a wimp. Lunch rolls around and I say no piranah for me, but then I was thinking about it. I participated in the killing and would I ever eat a piranah again? So, I did it. The group was suprised and so was I. It was salty and bony.
I also talked a lot with the locals. Having a command of portugese is a great thing, I have learned so much about brasileiros and Brasil. But, on the down side brazilians LOVE to tease. Damn. That part I am not enjoying too much. No Diego, I don't want to marry you, have brazilian citizenship, two children and a white picket fence. This was very annoying going on the fifth hour plus all other portuguese speakers joined in on the fun. I found a great way out, "não entedei" or "i didn't understand". Hahaha! Succas. Oh I have no idea what you are talking about let's changed the subject. It worked rather well.
That's all folks. I need to wash my very smelly clothing, figure out how to navigate to Belém and harass the hostel staff I hung out with last night...TCHAU!
I´ve been on the move quite a bit. Toured the Argentinean side of Iguaço (it is WAY better than the brazilian side). This was an all day, very sweaty excursion. Totally worth it. I stood above the precipe of the falls and could barely take pictures because of all the mist. It was very humbling to be surrounded by the power of such a simple element, water. It was a paridise really; rainbows, palm trees, birds, and butterflys abound in the unique ecological niche that it Iguaço.
Immediately after touring the falls I'm on a bus headed to Campo Grande, where the Pantanla tour departrs from. Oh man, I was stinky. Walking all day in the sun combined with 12 hours on a bus- stench. I putter around Campo Grande waiting for the tour to leave, oh and took a shower.
I thought I was outdoorsy, I thought I had everything I needed to rough it, I thought mosquitos didn't bother me that much. I think I thought wrong. I didn't bring insect repellent- bad move. as soon as we step off the bus we are attacked by a swarm of mosquitos. Oh shit, welcome to the Pantanal gringos! That's what we get for willingly visiting a SWAMP.
Besides the mosquitos the Pantanal was lovely (sorry, I've been meeting a lot of brits). The accomodations were very cool- hammoks! The food was fantastic, although I pretty sure I'm still farting from all the rice and beans...
The first day was horseback riding! I was practically peeing I was so excited. My horse was awesome, I named it howard even though it was a girl. We went for a 2.5 hour ride, glorious. I got to steer a horse and make it trot. I decided that I need a horsey, pweeeese? The scenery was beautiful, flat swamp, tall grasses, dense palm jungles, and isolated lakes filled with crocodiles.
Another favorite was the hiking. A little different to my idea of hiking. Hiking with long sleves, jeans, boots, hat, and bandana on the neck in a humid 90 degrees. I was very sweaty, but I was trying in vain to avoid massive attack by mosquito. Our guide, Sondro showed us native uses for the plants and animals in the area. It was facinating. There are lots of fruits growing in the jungle and I ate guava from a tree, a relative to the avacado that was sweet and a tiny tiny coconut. I also slathered my face in repelent about every half hour.
Boat riding on the river had to be my favorite. We saw so many animals! Toucans, monkeys, herons, cranes, capivarai- the largest rodent in the world, caimen crocodiles, macaws, oh the list could go on and on. It was glorious, the sun was setting and reflecting off the water and herons were taking flight. A serene and tranquil setting; that is until we realized that our boat was flooding. Sondro assured us that we would not die, but it was iffy. Fortunately we made it back to the landing unscathed, except for wet legs.
I also swam in the piranah and caimen infested river. It is the color of lager and very warm. refreshing none the less and mosquitos can't bite you under water.
I have claimed lately that if I were to every eat meat it would have to be a fish that I caught and killed myself. So, we went fishing for piranahs. Its was disgusting; gross meat on a hook dangling from a bamboo rod. apparently I really suck at fishing which was fine I didn't particularly want to kill one anyway. I caught one fish and promptly threw it back in the water, I'm a wimp. Lunch rolls around and I say no piranah for me, but then I was thinking about it. I participated in the killing and would I ever eat a piranah again? So, I did it. The group was suprised and so was I. It was salty and bony.
I also talked a lot with the locals. Having a command of portugese is a great thing, I have learned so much about brasileiros and Brasil. But, on the down side brazilians LOVE to tease. Damn. That part I am not enjoying too much. No Diego, I don't want to marry you, have brazilian citizenship, two children and a white picket fence. This was very annoying going on the fifth hour plus all other portuguese speakers joined in on the fun. I found a great way out, "não entedei" or "i didn't understand". Hahaha! Succas. Oh I have no idea what you are talking about let's changed the subject. It worked rather well.
That's all folks. I need to wash my very smelly clothing, figure out how to navigate to Belém and harass the hostel staff I hung out with last night...TCHAU!
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